Tasks

One of the most persistent misconceptions about vineyard work is that most of it takes place in summer.

Entirely understandable, since grapes, with their luxurious green leaves and delectable sweet fruits, seem the very essence of summer.

But truth be told, in the fall, winter, and spring, a LOT of behind the scenes work goes on.

Most of the summer, we are highly visible in the vine rows, attempting to wrestle rampant vine growth onto an orderly trellis.

In all the other months, our work is more varied.

One small task after the harvest, all of our row netting needs to be removed from the trellis and stored.

To expedite the process this year, I devised this contraption:

Like many of the world's great inventions, it started as pallets, scrap lumber and threaded pipe.

Five acres of bird netting, now spooled, neatly stacked, and stored.

What's on board for November?

Record keeping, trellis repair, equipment maintenance and inventory, weed control.

In December, we'll prune the orchard, and in the vineyard, prune and weigh canes from a random sample of vineyard vines across all six vineyard blocks, to assess this past season's growth, and plan dormant season pruning, which begins mid-January in earnest.

Tomorrow

Late summer days in a vineyard, the bounty borne by years of patient nurture drips from the vines.

Aromella clusters in the South Vineyard, September 2014

Clusters of amber, bronze, apricot, and deep purple bear a perilous, and transitory, prosperity.

With each passing day under a slanting September sun, the color deepens.

The fruit sweetens.

As the crop ripens, birds circle overhead, menacingly.

We worry about our perilous prosperity, borne as fragile fruit.

On misty vineyard mornings, a doe and her speckled fawns seek to breach the bird netting, and sample forbidden fruit.

As the poet observed, nothing gold can stay.

And that goes for September, which swept in with a blaze of goldenrod along the creek bed, and the transitory bounty of the crop this golden month bears.

Before we turn the page to October and autumn’s demise, all of the fruit, or that which does not succumb to the appetite of the creatures with whom we share this temporary paradise, will be harvested from the vines.

Frontenac Gris in the North Vineyard, September 2014

Our winged and hoofed friends sweep in to glean what remains.

There comes a day, after the last harvest, when we walk the denuded vineyard rows, where the jeweled tones of the crop we nurtured are replaced by lemon yellow leaves, with the first crinkles of brown fringing their edges.

The skeletal remains of rejected grape clusters, stripped clean by crows, litter the vineyard turf.

We’ll allow ourselves our moment of melancholy.

And then we shift gears to next year, the bounty of future harvests, the rich nectar now safely aging in winery tanks.

A sign on a piece of aged barn wood in my backyard reads: to plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow.

In the vineyard it is perpetually tomorrow.

No sooner are the last grapes plucked from the vines, than attention turns to next year.

Furrows are tilled.

Bird netting rolled.

Nursery orders placed.

Canada geese, flying in a perfect wedge, migrate overhead. Their somber call dissipates into the horizon.

On these October days of fading goldenrod, something about the plaintive wail of migrating birds makes me think that they understand what we ourselves have come to know:

Each tomorrow brings us closer to another golden season, a tomorrow in which we dream of another bountiful harvest, dripping from the vines, in extravagant jeweled tones.

The bounty of our acres, on display at our harvest festival, September 2014.

Tradition

2014 Festa Gervasi Wagon

If you do something twice, it's a tradition, right?

And so it is with our harvest wagon.

Last year, for Festa Gervasi, our grape harvest festival, we had great fun putting together our inaugural harvest wagon.

Building on Italian grape harvest traditions, we thought it would be fun to transplant the tradition to Canton, Ohio.

Everything on the wagon comes from our acres:

Scrap lumber left from construction, wild flowers from the meadows, bedding plants from our grounds, grapes from our vineyard.

I don't think anyone would ever guess that below our inaugural wagon was our aluminum airboat trailer.

Well, for this year's wagon, we started inauspiciously with pallets.

And loaded it up!

We look forward to continuing this tradition each year.

Each harvest, like each season, has its own personality and traits. And we look forward to each wagon looking different from those that came before.

Tonnage

A dewy Arandell cluster at veraison, culled from the vines.

Vineyard work is often solitary work. But that's not to say those of us who tend the vines don't enjoy visitors in the vineyard rows.

We absolutely love it. 

Sure, these 4,000+ grape vines and this bevy of swans can be amiable companions. But conversationalists, they are not.

This time of year, the most frequent question we get from guests who stroll into the rows: What are you doing with all of those grapes you are picking? 

Baskets and bins of them. Sometime a full Bobcat load.

No, we are not harvesting yet.

We are culling imperfect fruit from the vines in anticipation of harvest.

Since January, every decision we make, from dormant pruning to bud adjustment to shoot positioning to cane and cluster thinning, is aimed at reducing the size (and increasing the quality) of the eventual wine grape crop.

A bushel of Petite Pearl 

Right now we feel pretty good about the amount of fruit our vines bear. But from now to harvest, we will continue to pass through as time allows to cull under ripe, overripe, crowded, and damaged clusters.

Statistically, the amount of fruit we remove isn't huge based on the overall vineyard crop.

But with thousands of vines, even a few clusters pulled from each one, eventually adds up to TONS.

And so the work of the vineyard continues.

A productive vineyard day is a messy vineyard day.

In our wake, depending on the season, we leave piles of pruned canes, carpets of trimmed shoots, baskets of culled fruit.

The never ending attempt to contain the bounty of nature.

All of the extra tonnage, returned to the earth, composted and eventually feeding  another cycle of growth.

The second most common question we get from vineyard visitors: This vineyard is immaculate!

Well, perhaps not at the peak of our work day.

We always have to leave a little time at the end, to remove the tonnage of detritus produced.

If we do our job right, you'll never now we were here.

No one, except the swans, and the grapes.

And they usually keep all of our secrets.

Countdown

It's hard to remember an August quite like this.

The mornings greet us in the vineyard with dew kissed grape clusters, and overflowing rain gauges (four plus inches on a recent torrential night.)

Breezy afternoons where the thermometer hovers at 70.

Rain gear and jackets that normally wouldn't see the light of day until October are summoned from musty storage.

And so the pleasant work of Veraison, the season when the vines ripen their fruit, carries on in the vineyard.

Our six varietals, August 14, beginning to show their harvest hues.

Imperfect clusters are culled from the vines.

Clusters are gathered, weighed, tasted, and chemically analyzed to track ripening.

Bird netting is installed.

Normally in this season, our concerns are staying hydrated and watching for sun stroke, as we race the clock  to fully dress the vines for harvest.

This year we have to remember to pack an extra jacket, and be on the look out for mold and mildew on the damp vines.

So while it makes a pleasant work day for the vineyard workers, the vines themselves would prefer it much hotter and drier.

If our previous harvest seasons in Canton, Ohio have taught us anything, it is to expect the unexpected:

And so it is: another unusual season among the vines.

But, what a beautiful season it has been.

Each day forward on the countdown to harvest, we will be posting here a picture or an observation  from the vines.

Labor that began among snow rollers in a Vortex-frozen January vineyard, continues its steady march through an unseasonably cool August.

Anything can yet happen:

Stay tuned, and watch it unfold.

Bushels of imperfect fruit, culled from the vines.

Change

For months in the vineyard now we've been surrounded by walls of solid green.

Tiny buds that seemed so vulnerable on those startlingly cold May mornings have since unleashed a torrent of growth.

We've trained, nurtured, and positioned those individual shoots.

Up through the trellis wires.

Forcing rampant nature into an orderly form it would rather not take. We've had a lot of intimate contact with acres of nothing but green.

So needless to say, something that is NOT green catches your eye.

Marquette cluster in the North Vineyard, July 21

As it did a few days ago.

The first few berries I assumed were wasp-stung or perhaps bruised by the tractor.

Then I'd see another.

And another.

From sour apple green to a slightly bruised olive, until finally pink, and ultimately purple.

So it wasn't an injury or an outbreak of disease in the vineyard, but rather the season unfolding exactly as it should:

The second-to-last week of July, amidst a rare stretch of startlingly pleasant 75-degree days, we have arrived at the season of Veraison.

Veraison is when the grape vines shift their energy from vegetative growth, to the ripening of the fruit.

The outward clue to this internal shift is the sudden arrival of points of color amid all of the green.

One by one, the berries (as each individual grape on the bunch is known) turn.

For a few days, which some call the party balloon phase, the individual berries on each cluster will vary: Greens and pinks and reds and purples happily co-mingle on all the same bunch.

Eventually, they will stabilize to the final varietal hue.

In the case of our our vineyard, our six varietals will produce clusters that will range from amber (Vignoles) to apricot (Aromella) to to bronze (Frontenac Gris) to dark purple (Arandell and Petite Pearl) to blue-black (Marquette).

Until these jewel tones settle into their final ripe color, we will enjoy the variety, and a palette that changes by the hour, with each subtle shift of the afternoon rays, with each berry that darkens and sweetens, exactly on cue.

Blackberries along the South Vineyard fence row.

This year, veraison struck the same day the wild brambles along the back fence row yielded their first glistening fruit, the same day the apples in the orchard acquired their first blush of red, the same day the poke weed along the gravel lane began to drip fountains of purple fruit.

The shortening of the days.

The approach of autumn.

All around us, the plants are responding, coloring the landscape, enticing the birds.

It's a beautiful scene, but one in which we can't linger.

Leaves must be pulled from the ripening clusters, exposing them to even light to ripen the fruit.

Vines must be trained.

Bird netting unfurled, hopefully in advance of ravenous migratory hordes.

It's the kind of day you pause at the end of, look down the neat green row you've just worked through, admiring the new hues, ignoring the rampant untamed growth (just for the moment) that lies ahead.

Our varietals in August (clockwise from top): Marquette, Frontenac Gris, Arandell, Petite Pearl, Aromella. Center: Vignoles.

Bloom

Newly emerged Marquette leaves, weighted by dew at sunrise.

These abundant June mornings, we arrive at sunrise to a vineyard dripping with dew, and noisy with new life.

The vineyard is in bloom. 

On our historic farm property, this moment in the life of the vines coincides with a time when our diverse 55 acres of woodland, pasture, vineyard, orchard, and still &  flowing water greets us each day with new blossoms, freshly unfurled foliage, and, everywhere, creatures newly born and hatched.

I've never read a poetic ode to the glory of a vineyard in bloom.

The grape flowers themselves are green or a dull sulfurous yellow: exquisite in their own minuscule  perfection, but hardly showy enough to inspire a wandering bard to commit the sight to verse.

Inconspicuous Marquette bloom.

But let me attempt to paint a word picture of what a day in our vineyard looks like, in this short hopeful season when the grape vines bloom:

Our vineyard office sits atop a small swell of land, providing an opportune vantage to start our day. (I imagine the pioneer farmer who chose this site for his house had this exact morning vista in mind.)

We see the South Vineyard unfurling on a distant sunny slope.

In the foreground, steam rises from the spring-fed mill pond.

Our resident Great Blue Heron stands in majestic stillness on the barn stone shore line. Upon our approach, she silently swoops off with effortless grace.

A box turtle has slowly and methodically made her way from the distant lake to a bare patch of earth, where she deposits her eggs.

She blinks at us with startlingly pretty red-framed eyes.

Walking past the historic barn of virgin Ohio oak, we come upon the North Vineyard, and as we do so, Betty the brown duck toddles out from her nest under the hydrangeas, where she tends a clutch of eight eggs.

Arriving in the Marquette block of the vineyard, the sections we've worked through this week display neat walls of bright green foliage, contained between strands of galvanized wire.

Each of those thousands of rampant shoots was hand trained vertically to create this transitory scene of perfect order.

In a few more days, those newly trained rows, fed by abundant rain, lengthening days, and fertile loam, will produce another round of prodigious new growth, and we will start over once again from where we so recently began: restoring our version of Eden on what would prefer to be wilderness.

We walk down the rows, tucking some errant shoots that were either missed yesterday, or that grew overnight and flopped to the ground under the weight of a heavy morning dew.

Grape leaves that weeks ago were perhaps the size of a silver dollar are now bigger than my outstretched hand.

We scout for pests, mildew, mold, blight.

We check the rain gauge and the vineyard weather station.

Now, we enter the last rows of Marquette vines, the ones we have yet to tend in this round of training.

We are no longer in Eden, but somewhere far more primal. 

Thick blood-red shoots sprout from the base of the vines, and from all along the woody gnarled trunks. They seem to reach and grasp, bright red tendrils straining (menacingly?) for something to latch onto.

New green leaves unfurl above the trellis, dripping with dew, illuminated by the rising sun. 

We don't pause for too long, not for fear of the tendrils, but because this sunrise survey is just a short part of the work of our day.

Before moving along, however, we notice how incredibly LOUD the life in the vines can be in this season of bloom.

Killdeer hatched a few weeks ago when the grape buds first burst now scurry beneath the vineyard rows, trilling, singing, fanning their tails. 

On the lake shore, water fowl noisily squawk ancient rivalries, defending terrain, protecting their broods.

On the row ends, our newly-mounted bluebird houses are fully occupied.

A shiny indigo-breasted swallow emerges from one, splitting her attention between two ardent rivals.

Full Occupancy

Even the locust vineyard poles that support the galvanized wire and rampant vines sing: from knot hole nests within, the cheeping and chirping of newly hatched swallows.

Singing locust poles.

And so the work of the day commences.

This day when the vines blossom with insignificant flower, we hope to complete this section of Marquette, and make progress through the more orderly Frontenac Gris just beyond.

At the end of the day, we will pause at the end of our newly ordered rows, as errant red shoots we removed from craggy trunks shrivel on lush vineyard turf under a pleasant June sun.

We will pause for a moment, relishing the symmetry and order we have just imposed.

We will feel pride in the work accomplished in this bountiful June day.

And we will feel humbled, knowing that by Monday, it will be time to start over and do it all again.

Caught up in the new life unfolding so abundantly around us, we keep the perspective that it won't always be this way.

This season of bloom is the lush peak of the vineyard's yearly cycle.

Soon, the Solstice.

The days will imperceptibly shorten.

New growth will ebb ever so slightly.

Grape vines will put their energy into converting those insignificant dull blossoms into vibrant, sweet fruit.

Until then, we just try to keep up with the rampant vines, and enjoy the view along the way.

Fleeting perfection of order imposed.